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GREAT AMERICAN TAP ROOM

EIGHT OF NEW YORK’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WINE RESTAURANTS, PAST AND PRESENT
By Levi Dalton
 
Which restaurants have had the greatest impact on the city’s wine scene?
 
Classics Week logoWhat have been the classic wine restaurants of New York? One might count the number of selections on wine lists, or the number of years in business, to try to find an answer, but a more powerful indicator is alumni. Some restaurants have spawned numerous top sommeliers who have gone on to notable careers of their own, while some restaurants, even with a lot of wine on their lists, have had little or no legacy. So what have been the most influential wine restaurants in New York over time, and how do the various tribes of New York sommeliers relate? It turns out that a small handful of restaurants have supplied a great majority of the city’s sommeliers. What are those names?
 

Paul Crispin Quitoriano
 
Gramercy Tavern
 
Gramercy Tavern is the great American tap room, and many restaurants today owe something of their antique strewn, rustic throwback look to Gramercy. For beverages, Gramercy Tavern has long had a run of innovators associated with it, whether it be Steven Olson’s bet on Rhône wines for the opening list, Paul Grieco’s intensive approach to staff training, or Jim Meehan’s cocktail program before he left for PDT.
 
Who worked at Gramercy Tavern?:
 
Steven Olson, who now consults and fills ambassador promotional roles for various wine regions
 
Paul Grieco, who would go on to open Hearth and the Terroir wine bars
 
Robert Bohr, who would open Cru and eventually Charlie Bird
 
Richard Luftig, who is now the wine buyer for Cookshop, Five Points, and Hundred Acres
 
Juliette Pope, who is the Beverage Director of Gramercy Tavern today
 
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