by Paul Clarke, Jan 22, 2016
Juliette Pope could be considered an accidental wine expert. When she first started at Danny Meyer’s Gramercy Tavern in 1997, Pope made her home among the other chefs in the kitchen. But when she and her husband—also a chef—began planning their own restaurant, it became clear that some front-of-house expertise was needed.
Pope stepped out of the kitchen in 2000, taking the helm as Gramercy Tavern’s beverage director in 2004, and since then she’s not only gained the kind of insight into wine she was seeking—she’s also placed the restaurant among the highest echelons in terms of selection and service. And while she says she still misses the kitchen, the shift from back of the house to front wasn’t as big a move as she first thought. “There’s a natural affinity between food and wine, and that helped lead me into it, even as a cook,” she says.
Gramercy boasts more than 600 wines (along with an admirable range of beers, ciders, spirits and cocktails), and Pope and her team have managed to make the list approachable. She says the key to removing the intimidation factor has been to immerse the full staff in the program, so everyone can understand and explain what’s in a glass.