FRONT BURNER: SOFT-SERVE VERSIONS OF SIGNATURE DESSERTS, SOUR CHERRIES AND MORE
By Florence Fabricant
To Grill: A Catch of Wreckfish Finds Its Way to Tables
Wreckfish, a deepwater fish related to grouper, has recently been showing up in New York restaurants and markets. With good reason. Its dense, succulent flesh is mild yet meaty, with more swagger than halibut. A denizen of the Atlantic around the Carolinas, it was on its way to becoming a significant commercial catch in the 1980s, but fishermen’s initiatives reduced the quota to protect the fishery. It’s also called stone bass, but the name “wreckfish,” derived from the fact that the fish are often found near shipwrecks, seems to have stuck. Floyd Cardoz, the executive chef of North End Grill, serves it grilled, on a bed of fregola and peas with a brown butter-lemon sauce. He said he likes its quality and sustainability. Consider it for your grill: $19 a pound for steaks and fillets at Fairway markets.
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