DANNY MEYER’S MARTA BRINGS DRESSED-UP PIZZA TO NOMAD
It’s All in the Thin Crust and Creative Toppings
By Pervaiz Shallwani
A pizza with a poached egg goes into the pizza oven at Marta.
ANDREW LAMBERSON FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNAL
In New York city’s growing game of high-end pizza, winning is all in the crust.
At Marta—celebrated restaurateur Danny Meyer’s first foray into the business of scorching ovens and adventurous toppings—the dough takes its cue from Rome, where a thin, almost cracker like pie is the fast-food of choice.
Executive Chef Nick Anderer spent his early career studying in the region and has teamed up with Mr. Meyer to create a dressed-up version inside the Martha Washington, the onetime women-only hotel that has been transformed into one the newest boutique spots in the city.
The Funghi pizza
ANDREW LAMBERSON FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNAL
The space is clean and simple, with a large dining room and an open kitchen, where quick working pizza chefs churn out pies every three to four minutes from two ovens.
The pizza menu has plenty of red sauce and white classics, but you’ll be rewarded for venturing off the safe path.
The Trippa Alla Romana ($16) is a play on the classic Roman dish of spicy, slow-roasted tripe. Mr. Anderer deftly places small chunks of tender tripe on tomato sauce pie with chili flakes, pecorino cheese and fresh mint.
The Funghi ($18) is more than just a mushroom pizza. It is layered with meaty hunks of hen-of-the-wood mushrooms, red onion, sharp Fontina cheese and fragrant thyme.
Demand is high, so thankfully the waiting area is cozy. Grab a house-bottled Negroni ($14) or the La Certosa ($10), with green and yellow Chartreuse, Italian ale and lemon and settle in one of the hidden nooks.
Bottled negroni
ANDREW LAMBERSON
Marta, 29 E. 29th St. between Madison Avenue and Park Avenue South; lunch is served Monday through Friday from noon to 3 p.m.; 212-651-3800; DOH rating: A.
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