What Hospitality Means to Times Restaurant Critic Pete Wells

Pete Wells, Restaurant Critic of the New York Times, follows-up on his 3-star review of Union Square Cafe with a thought piece on what hospitality means to him.
"Generally, I try to keep my moods separate from my reactions as a critic. If I had a bad day, I don't take it out on the salmon. But when my mood has been directly affected by something the restaurant did, that's relevant to the review. In this case it helped Union Square Cafe overcome the forces of gravity and return to the three-star atmosphere, where it had orbited for 20 years until Mr. Bruni's write-up."